Aït Ben Haddou: How to Visit on the Way from Marrakech to Merzouga

Aït Ben Haddou is a ksar: a group of earthen houses, towers and walls built close together for defence, with a collective granary at the top of the hill. It stood on the trade route that carried salt, gold and other goods between the Sahara and Marrakech across the Tizi n’Tichka pass.

The site may have been fortified for many centuries, but most of the buildings you see today are believed to date from the 17th century or later. They are made of rammed earth and mud brick, which must be repaired after heavy rain. UNESCO listed the ksar as a World Heritage Site in 1987.

Most families moved to the new village across the river in the second half of the 20th century, but a few still live inside the walls. Please respect closed doors and ask before you photograph people.

Aït Ben Haddou lies on the southern side of the High Atlas, about 30 km north-west of Ouarzazate. From Marrakech, the N9 road crosses the mountains by the Tizi n’Tichka pass at 2,260 m, then a side road leads to the village shortly before Ouarzazate.

There is no direct public bus to the ksar. Most visitors come on a tour, with a private driver or in a rental car. Grands taxis run from Ouarzazate, but a day trip from Marrakech by public transport is not realistic.

If you are travelling from Marrakech to the Sahara, Aït Ben Haddou is right on your way. Here is how most tours and self-drivers plan the first two days.

The car parks and restaurants are in the new village, on the other side of the Ounila River. To reach the ksar, walk down to the riverbed. Most of the year it is dry or shallow, and you can cross on sandbags and stepping stones. After rain, use the pedestrian footbridge a little further along.

On the way, you may be offered a donkey ride or the services of a guide. A guide is not required, but a good one explains the history of the families, the granary and the building techniques. Agree the price before you start.

From the main gate, narrow lanes climb between high earthen walls, covered passages and small squares. Many ground floors are now craft shops selling carpets, jewellery, fossils and paintings. Some local artists paint with tea, saffron and indigo, then reveal the colours by heating the paper over a flame.

Some families open their houses so you can see the rooms, the kitchen and the view from the roof. They usually ask for a small fee or a tip. Wear good shoes: the paths are uneven, with steps and loose stones.

At the top of the hill stand the ruins of the agadir, the collective granary where families once stored their grain in times of danger. The climb from the river takes about 15–20 minutes on steps and rough paths.

From the top, you see the whole ksar below you, the green valley of the Ounila, the new village and, on clear days, the snow-capped High Atlas on the horizon. It is the best place in the village for sunset photos.

With its earthen towers and desert setting, Aït Ben Haddou has played ancient cities, Biblical towns and fantasy kingdoms. Local guides love pointing out the spots used in each film.

Spring (March to May) and autumn (late September to November) are the most pleasant seasons, with warm days and cool nights. In summer, it is very hot by midday, so visit early or late. In winter, days are often sunny and clear, but snow can close the Tizi n’Tichka pass for a few hours.

Tour groups from Marrakech usually arrive between 11:00 and 14:00. Early morning and late afternoon are quieter, with soft golden light on the earthen walls.

Shortly after the Tizi n’Tichka pass, a paved side road leads east to Telouet, home of the huge kasbah of the Glaoui family, who controlled this region in the early 20th century. Part of it is in ruins, but some rooms keep beautiful carved cedar ceilings and zellige tiles.

From Telouet, the road follows the Ounila Valley down to Aït Ben Haddou, past villages, red canyons and green terraces. It adds about an hour of driving, but it is one of the most beautiful roads in the High Atlas.

Ouarzazate, about 30 minutes away, is the largest town in the region and often called the door of the desert. Many tours stop at the Atlas Studios on the way into town, where you can walk through Egyptian temples, palaces and streets built as film sets. The entry fee is not usually included in tour prices.

In the town centre, the Taourirt kasbah is another former Glaoui residence and is worth an hour if you have time. Ouarzazate is also a practical place to sleep, with more hotels, banks and petrol stations.

Sleeping near the ksar is the best way to see it without the crowds. Here is how the main options compare.

We picked these four day trips from Marrakech. Two are large shared tours with thousands of reviews, one is a private trip via Telouet and the Ounila Valley, and one is a simpler tour focused on the Atlas and the ksar.

When we checked on 13 November 2026, shared day trips started at about US$21–24 per person. Read what is included: lunch, the local guide in the ksar and the film studio entry are often extra.

These multi-day tours from Marrakech visit Aït Ben Haddou on the first day before continuing to Merzouga: two three-day tours and two four-day tours. The four-day tours give you more time on the road and in the gorges.

Before you book, check where you sleep each night, whether the camp has private bathrooms and whether the tour returns to Marrakech or ends in Fes.

Here is a realistic budget for your visit. Prices in the village are in dirhams; carry small notes.

From Aït Ben Haddou, the dunes of Erg Chebbi are about a day and a half away by road, through the Dades Valley and Todra Gorge. Arrive in Merzouga in the afternoon, ride a camel to the dunes at sunset and spend the night in the desert.

Merzouga Glamping has private ensuite tents with AC and heating running day and night, dinner in an air-conditioned restaurant, and a sunset camel ride and sandboarding included. Stays start from €70 per person per night; a single tent is €85. Our camp can be reached by normal car, and we can help with a driver.

Tour itineraries and day-trip prices were checked against the selected GetYourGuide listings on 13 November 2026. Prices and inclusions can change; review the current listing for your date. Distances, driving times and local costs are estimates.